How to Plant Trees, Shrubs, and Perennials in Illinois
Ten steps that cover how to plant trees, shrubs and perennials in heavy clay soil, seasonal extremes and slow drainage, whether the plant came balled and burlapped or in a container.
Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in Illinois requires specific techniques to handle heavy clay soil, seasonal extremes, and drainage concerns common in the region. Whether you’re planting a balled and burlapped tree, a container-grown shrub, or perennials for pollinators, following the right steps ensures healthy root development and long-term success. Use this planting guide for Northern Illinois to get the best results with your landscaping projects.
How to plant trees and shrubs in Illinois clay
Steps 1 to 5 happen before any soil goes back in. Get the depth right here and the rest follows.
1. Dig the Hole Properly
- Trees: Dig the hole 2 times wider than the root ball or container and just as deep.
- Shrubs & Perennials: Dig 1.5 to 2 times wider than the container and the same depth.
- Plant the top of the root ball or container soil flush with the surrounding ground in most cases.
- Only plant 1 to 2 inches above grade if you have very heavy clay soil or if the plant requires excellent drainage (e.g., redbud, pine, lavender).
2. Amend the Soil Selectively
- Mix native soil removed from the hole with Wasco Garden Soil or One-Step Soil Conditioner if the area has compacted or poorly draining soil.
- Avoid replacing all the native soil. Over-amending can lead to root-girdling, which is damaging to plants’ long-term health.
3. Place the Plant Correctly
- Balled and Burlapped Trees: Do not remove the wire basket or burlap until the tree is in the hole. Once in place, cut away the top third of the basket and burlap. Leave the sides and bottom intact to prevent root ball collapse. All twine must be removed, however, metal and burlap can remain on the sides and bottom of the root ball and will not cause problems for the tree’s long-term health.
- Potted Plants: Gently remove from the container. If root-bound, loosen or score circling roots to encourage outward growth.
4. Orient and Stabilize
- Position the plant with its best side facing your main view.
- Ensure trees are upright and stable. For shrubs and perennials, the crown should be at or just above the soil surface.
5. Backfill and Settle the Soil
- Backfill halfway with the native soil and amendment blend. Water thoroughly to eliminate air pockets.
- Finish backfilling and tamp lightly. Avoid over-compacting the soil.
Mulch and water
6. Mulch Properly
- Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch in a wide ring. Keep mulch away from the trunk or crown of the plant.
- No mulch volcanoes. Proper mulching prevents rot and discourages pests.
7. Water Deeply and Regularly
- Water thoroughly after planting.
- In the first 1 to 2 years, water deeply and infrequently (1 time per week for trees, 1 to 2 times per week for shrubs), adjusting based on rainfall and soil drainage. See our full Care of New Plants Guide for more information on watering.
After the planting
8. Stake Only if Necessary
- Stake trees only if they’re in high-wind areas or unstable.
- Remove stakes after one growing season.
9. Use Root Starter, Avoid High-Nitrogen Fertilizers
- Use an organic root starter such as Biotone to introduce beneficial microbes and support root development.
- Do not use high-nitrogen fertilizer at planting. It encourages weak top growth.
10. Monitor and Maintain
- Check regularly for signs of stress, soil settling, or poor drainage.
- Maintain mulch and keep the planting area weed-free.
- Ensure the trunk flare or crown remains visible above soil grade.
This guide covers how to plant trees in Illinois and also applies to how to plant shrubs and perennials in Northern Illinois. Whether you’re working with clay soil, installing a balled and burlapped tree, or wondering how to plant container grown plants, these steps will help ensure success in your Illinois garden.
Would rather we planted it?
Our crews plant anything you buy from us, at the correct depth with the mulch laid properly, and every tree they install carries a three year guarantee on the plant and the labor. Tree planting services.
Start with the right soil and starter
Wasco Garden Soil, One-Step Soil Conditioner for compacted clay, and Bio-tone starter are all on the shelf at the garden center, and the staff at the bench can size the bag to your hole.
How to plant trees: common questions
How wide and deep should the planting hole be?
For trees, dig the hole 2 times wider than the root ball or container and just as deep. For shrubs and perennials, dig 1.5 to 2 times wider than the container and the same depth. The top of the root ball sits flush with the surrounding ground in most cases, or 1 to 2 inches above grade in very heavy clay or for plants that need excellent drainage, such as redbud, pine and lavender.
Do I remove the wire basket and burlap?
Not until the tree is in the hole. Once it is in place, cut away the top third of the basket and burlap and leave the sides and bottom intact so the root ball does not collapse. Remove all twine. Metal and burlap left on the sides and bottom will not harm the tree.
How much mulch should I use?
A 2 to 3 inch layer in a wide ring, kept away from the trunk or crown. No mulch volcanoes. Proper mulching prevents rot and discourages pests.
How often do I water after planting?
Water thoroughly at planting. For the first 1 to 2 years, water deeply and infrequently, about once a week for trees and once or twice a week for shrubs, adjusting for rainfall and drainage. The Care of New Plants guide has the full schedule.
Should I stake a new tree?
Only if it is in a high wind area or unstable, and remove the stakes after one growing season.
Keep looking
Just planted? Care of New Plants has the watering schedule for the first summer, the gardening calendar says what to do each month, and the plant finder helps you pick the next one.
Ask before you dig
Bring a photo of the spot and the plant tag to the counter on Route 64 in St. Charles and our staff will walk through how to plant trees, shrubs and perennials in that spot, from depth to spacing.